General Consideration
The Halong Bay trip was my main concern (toghether with Sapa Trekking) since the time I started to conceive the journey. Outrageous prices for the good junks, as an alternative wrecks and risk of sinking. In the end, I decided to spend the night in Cat Ba in one hotel, and then visit the bay on day trip. I spent 22 USD, and I was fully satisfied, I believe I have seen everything.
Hoping it can be useful, I list other services offered in Cat Ba Town:
2 days / 1 night cruise: 60-65 USD, 180 USD for a private tour (just two people, price per person)
3 days – 2 nights cruise: 110 USD Standard, 140 VIP, 450 USD Private tour
7/25
Despite the bad weather, Roberta and I decide to try our fortune and get to Cat Ba. With a taxi, 20 thousand dong per each, we reach the Luong Yen bus terminal, communicate with the driver is a titanic enterprise, and same to make sure he really understands where to go
With 220 thousand dong we buy (directly at the counter inside the terminal and not with intermediaries), a combo ticket bus + ferry to Cat Ba Town, with the Hoang Long company. Departures are at 7.20, 9.20, 11.20, 13.20, time about 4 hours.
We leave at 11.20 and it still rains, but already in Haiphong has stopped, and when we get to Cat Ba Town the sky is clearing. I go to inspect the Cat Ba Dream Hotel, whose name I marked down before leaving, they want 20 USD for bed only, and it is not so nice. I try with the one aside, which looks in better shape, and they ask me 350 thousand dong, or about 17 USD, including breakfast.
http://www.viendong-hotel.com.vn/city_info/default.cfm
Our room on the top floor is not perfect, but at least is decent, and there’s a great view although the stretch of sea in front of us, full of fishing boats, and floating restaurants, is not very clean. After getting settled, we go out for a walk and collect information on the activities that can be done. We are offered a cruise for the next day, at 22 USD. On the bus we met some Spanish guys, with whom we have dinner. Some of them confirm to me they were discouraged from leaving for Halong as well, due to the bad weather. The Bamboo Restaurant is very well known, but my fish is dry and full of bones, a real crap. My friends who ordered shellfish are instead very satisfied.
After dinner we take a walk, there are some Western backpackers, but mostly Vietnamese tourists, because foreigners prefer to sleep on junks. I am rather happy to be here and see something “unsophisticated.” Our noisy group does not go unnoticed and we are the attraction of the pier, targeted by the Vietnamese flashes, everyone wants to have a picture with us. Some improvised bartenders sell beers and soft drinks from portable fridges, and make customers sit on their plastic chairs, just facing the sea. I ask for nothing better in life!
7/26 Halong Bay
Our tour starts at 8.00. Before, I go to the Hoang Long office and buy a ticket (300 thousand dong), with destination Ninh Binh, discovering with disappointment that there is only one departure a day, at 9.15 in the morning. So this is the only full day we will spend here, we hope to fully enjoy it. A small van carries us and other young people to the port of Ben Beo, some small hotels in a picturesque bay, out of sight rounded rock formations covered with green forest. At sea is a bustle of activities, and many houses are built on the water.
The junk postpones departure to allow the arrival of the Spanish guys who are late and so, in good company, we leave. The sky is cloudy, but the typhoon has passed, and the crew ensures that it will not rain. The boat is in pretty bad condition, and I am really happy I do not sleep here: for 22 USD, and a view like this, what can I desire more?
Having to make the necessary comparisons with the Krabi area, which is similar for geological formation, I admit I prefer the latter, because the sea is much clearer. I rather wonder why Halong Bay is included in the world seventh wonders list, and not Phi Phi Island ..
Well, in any case, here it is spectacular, and definitely not to be missed. Probably the bad weather has really dissuaded many people to reach the bay, because for long time we do not see any other boats around us. At about noon we stop in a sheltered bay where for a long time nobody else will come. Kayaking would be included in the price, but i remain on board to enjoy the complete silence, broken only by the loud chirping of cicadas on the rocks. In the early afternoon we visit the caves of Han Sung Sot
Shortly after the sun comes out and the colors of nature come alive. On the boat there is no shadow, so I keep on my shirts and skirt all the time not to get burnt. The last stop of the day is Monkey Island, on a white beach, where we are allowed to lie down and swim. Here the water is clean. We come back at 17.00.
We have dinner together at the Truc Lam Restaurant, really good food. The owner’s son is a skilled massage therapist and offers free demonstrations to volunteers, hoping to convince them to book a full session